Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
